Radio Times special - win The Doctor’s Bowtie!

The Radio Times covering the 50th Anniversary is out today, and we well as having a DOZEN covers to choose from, it contains a treasure trove of articles and photos from the complete history of Doctor Who.

One thing that caught my eye was a competition to win a screen worn Eleventh Doctor bow tie!

We do get a wonderful close up view of the bow tie to a level of detail you can’t see on screen or even on the high resolution costume portraits.

I wonder who the lucky winner will be!

* WARNING* FAKE items on eBay

I’ve been in two minds about posting this, but I decided to do so as a warning to other to sometimes be wary of what you see for sale on eBay.

The two items I’m highlighting appeared this week, and raised some eyebrows on a number of forums and social media sites.
They are so obviously wrong to not take in the savvy costume fan, are named such and come with apparent verifying documentation to possibly take in the less observant buyer.

Anyway, I leave you to judge their authenticity for yourself, but for what it’s worth I have my own opinions.

MATT SMITH
SCREEN USED TWEED JACKET

Radio Times - 50th anniversary issue covers

The 50th Anniversary week is almost here, and as expected the cover of the latest Radio Times features The Doctor - not just once, but TWLEVE times!

The sources of the images used are quite interesting, the majority of which are from the Radio Times own extensive archive of Doctor Who images. All are out-takes, so are being published for the first time.

The First and Second Doctors come from the 10th Anniversary Special published by the Radio Times in 1973. The Third Doctor comes from a photoshoot in 1970 for the launch of Jon Pertwee in the role.

The Fourth, Fifth, Sixth and Seventh Doctors are pictured from the shoot for the 30th Anniversary special, which featured in the 1993 Children In Need.

This shows that they were all taken separately before being composited into the group on the cover.

The rest of the Doctors come from bespoke cover shoots done for the Radio Times in more recent years. For example the Ninth Doctor is from the gatefold cover which launched the new series in 2005; and the Tenth from The Next Doctor in 2008. The Eleventh and War Doctors are obviously newly taken.

Here’s the full size version of the Eleventh Doctor’s cover.

Finally, have you noticed that all 12 covers join together to form a long single image?

Day Of The Doctor - costume portraits

It’s less than ten days until the 50th Anniversary special, and the BBC have released some high resolution pictures of Matt Smith in full costume.

The cashmere frock coat gets its penultimate outing.

This is worn over a new charcoal fine Prince of Wales checked waistcoat; blue shirt; and a new deep purple and small polka dot bow tie.

The trousers are a pair of his usual G-Star RAW; and he wears the purple boots to go with the frock coat.

The picture at the top gives a good view of the boots, and how high they come up the ankle.

Must say I’m looking forward to seeing Matt in action again!

Doctor Who Celebration - my tickets arrive!

It’s only a couple of weeks til the Doctor Who Celebration, and my tickets have arrived.

Now I’m getting excited!

Tweedaggon

I’ve had a very busy week - been having a very busy couple of months come to that.
October has been manic for US clients wanting something for Halloween, and now I have a rush for the 50th Official Celebration - all on top of my usual bits and pieces I do.

It’s funny sometimes how I don’t get asked to make a particular garment for ages, then I get a run of orders and find myself under a mountain of cloth.

This month is seems to be tweed!

If you’re waiting on a jacket from me - it’s likely yours is one of those shown above!

Cashmere Frock Coat - Magnoli version

Matt Smith’s cashmere frock coat is becoming increasing popular.
Personally I’m getting a lot of enquiries about it.

For the choice of fabric, the best alternative option out there is the Abby Shot coat, though their pattern leaves a bit to be desired.

If you so desire you can order something that resembles the coat from a variety of eBay sellers from the Far East, all of whom will make you a coat to measure for as little as $100.

Another option is to order one from Magnoli Clothiers in New Zealand.

Smith Frock Coat by Magnoli Clothiers

I’m afraid I don’t much care for this version.

The length of the coat is almost a foot too long. It desperately needs to be hacked back.

It’s difficult to tell from the photos, but I’m struggling to see the right number of buttonholes. There should be six on each since of the coat.

The back of the coat lacks almost everything a frock coat should have.



I can’t see the arched princess seams from the shoulders, and the skirt is in a single piece from the front edge to the back vent.

The top of the vent is too low, remembering that the coat is around a foot too long as well.
I can see why the fabric has been chosen. As well as being purple, the screen-used material has a shy-blue flecking which is very subtle.

I know this has been a sticking point for a number of cosplay fans, who seem to fixate about seeing a flecking in the fabric.

The choice, which undoubtedly has the flecking - in red and navy as well as the light blue - is at cost of almost everything else that needs to be right about the fabric. Not a very good attempt. Sorry.

One MILLION hits!

This week was a bit of a landmark day for this blog - I have passed the 1,000,000 hit!!!!

Since I started my first blog for my Tennant Coat back in March 2009, I didn’t know where things would lead.
I started covering costumes for other Doctors, and soon had to spin them out into other parallel blogs.

Before long I had NINE costume streams – all covering my various clothing endeavours!

The blog you are reading has proved by far to be the most popular and read – the 1,000,000 hits is testament to that. But what it doesn’t really reveal is the daily hit-rate I have been having.

AbbyShot Cashmere Frock Coat - now pre-orders

Following on from their preview pictures, I see that AbbyShot are now taking pre-orders for their version of the Eleventh Doctor’s Cashmere Frock Coat.

Eleventh Doctor Purple Frock Coat

Ladies Eleventh Doctor Purple Coat

AbbyShot frock coat - more preview pics

This week AbbyShot have released some more preview pictures of their upcoming Matt Smith Frock Coat.

This time we get to see the front and a three-quarter side view.

My initial impression is that it looks a bit broad and the lapels feel a little large.

The colour of the fabric looks great, as does the corduroy collar.

I’m in two minds about the coat after seeing these pictures.

The overall shape of the coat looks pretty good, but a lot of the details - and there aren’t many - do look a bit off in one way or another.

But once worn in a complete costume it would look great - especially since the fabric has been, for one, well matched.

The biggest surprise in the photos released is that there is a ladies version coming as well!

Cashmere Frock Coat - Ladies version

The photos of the ladies version of the Cashmere Frock Coat look pretty good too, and I can see what they have done to adapt the pattern for a more feminine form.

Ironically this version has a better waisted shape compared to the male version, but the was it level is too low.

If you look at the back of the coat, the top of the split is exactly halfway down the back.
The back of a well cut frock coat has the split above the halfway level, to about a 55/45% proportion.

Given the number of email I get from female fans looking for costumes to fit them, I can see AbbyShot doing surprisingly well with this coat.

It sounds like they will have the coats available in time for the 50th Anniversary Celebration, so I look forward to seeing them there.

AbbyShot frock coat - sneak peak

One of my readers has sent me a sneak peek photo of the upcoming AbbyShot cashmere frock coat.

All it shows is the back, but from what it shows it looks pretty good.

If I was to be picky the cuffs aren't vented and the back split is too high, but the main hurdle - the fabric - looks like a good match to the original.

It is certainly strides ahead of the amateur effort being offered from China, and out classes the cheap (but sold dear) choice of material from Magnoli Clothiers.

We await a view of the front, so I reserve judgement until that is revealed. But in the meantime, looking good!

All Saints layer boots - pair on eBay

Just to show these things do still happen, there was a pair of AllSaints layer boots on eBay this week, though despite their 99p starting price, it looks like someone did an off-listing deal.

Mens ALL SAINTS Boots

Mens All Saints boots.
Size 10

Have been worn but still good condition.
They naturally have that worn look which most Allsaints boots do

RRP £130

Cashmere Frock Coat - adding a corduroy collar to a found coat

Finding an exact copy of the Cashmere Frock Coat worn in series 7b is a near impossible task.

The cut of the coat may look pretty standard, but it is to an old fashioned pattern, so try as you might you won’t find a match on any typical high street anytime soon.

Don’t get me started on the fabric used, as you really won’t find anything that comes close to matching its weave and look.

That said a number of canny cosplayers have found three-quarter length smart coats which block out the shape and style of the Frock Coat pretty well. They aren’t 100% right, but once worn with a bow tie and waistcoat and brandishing a sonic - the effect comes together!

But the one thing they rarely have is a purple corduroy collar. If they do come with a contrasting collar it is often black and nearly always velvet.

A good friend of mine has sent me one such coat and has asked me to revamp the collar with some appropriately coloured corduroy fabric I have left over from making my own screen accurate coat.

As you can see, this coat has a black velvet collar, over which I am going to wrap my purple corduroy fabric.



Applying this is actually very easy - so long as you know what you’re doing.
Here is how I did it, pulling in some of my hand tailoring skills to give it a professional finish but using surprisingly simple techniques.

All it involves is CUTTING, a bit of MACHINE STITCHING and then a little HAND STITCHING to finish it off.


CUTTING
First we need to work out how much cloth to cut.
Lay the collar out flat and measure the length, adding 2 inches for either end.
Then measure the height, adding an inch above and a good 2 inches below.

I then cut this in corduroy - 20 x 6 inches in this case, making sure the lines in the fabric run parallel the shortest edges.


MACHINE STITCHING
Next I lay the corduroy right sides up and position the collar right sides up also with the edge of the collar close to the edge of the fabric.
A coat collar often has a gentle curve to the edge. Don’t worry about this - just lay the collar flat.
I pin the collar points, and the space between. Notice the pins are at right-angles to the collar edge.

I then sew along the collar, roughly 1cm from the edge, following any curve or shape it may have.
I start on the corduroy, catch the collar, then overshoot and finish on the corduroy the other end. This helps anchor the stitching and will not show.
With the pins at the angle they were, I was able to sew without removing them and avoided the machine needle breaking if it were to hit the pins.


I then return to my cutting mat and trim the excess corduroy along the length of the collar. It’s best to leave as much fabric beyond the collar points for now. it can always be trimmed later.

Next I need to press the fabric around the collar to bind the edge.




First with the collar right side up, I flap the corduroy underneath away form the collar, pulling it tight along the stitched edge and firmly press. I am pressing from this side so the pile of the fabric doesn’t get crushed.

Then I flip the collar over and wrap the corduroy back around the collar edge, binding it. This needs to be folded nice and tight then pressed firmly. Again, I am pressing from the back to protect the public side of the fabric.

Now, this coat has a line of machine stitching along the roll line of the collar. You can see it about an inch up on the black velvet.

I am going to use this to my distinct advantage as you will see later, but first I must establish the edge of the gorge - the join between the collar and lapel leading away from the notch.

I fold the corner over to match the angle of the velvet, then cut away the excess to give me approx a 1cm seam allowance to fold under.
I do this at both ends and pin along the machined roll line, keeping the fabric flat and tight form the already sewn edge of the collar.

On the underside of the collar I can see the original line of stitching, so I sew along this, overshooting a bit at each end. I will then unpick the stitching back to the exact edge of the corduroy and tie the ends off neatly. This is easier than trying to second guess where the fabric is on the underside of the work.

That’s the last of the machine stitching needed to do the collar, and what you should have is the corduory bound around the long edge of the collar; the fabric attached along the machined roll line; the edges folded under along the gorge and caught by the machine roll line stitch; and rough fabric along the bottom edge with two points at the collar ends.

HAND STITCHING
All of the rest of the collar is now hand stitched, but it is really simple to do.

First I trim the excess along the bottom to give me a 1cm seam allowance which I turn under to match the neckline of the existing collar. I pin it in place.

This is were sewing the roll line pays off.

The public face of the collar has already been secured top and bottom and I am now only tethering the one inch or so along the neckline.

I now hand stitch the corduroy to the coat around the neck line, from notch to notch.

This is the most time consuming part of the job - but once you get going it doesn’t take too long really. You don’t need to make the stitches too close together, say around 3-5mm apart is fine.
The corduroy can be quite forgiving and you should find your stitches disappear into the pile of the fabric.

Now the simplest and cleverest part of the job. I always like how easy this is when I am tailoring a jacket.

With the collar face down, fold the excess which forms a sort of tab around the front edge of the collar and press very firmly.

Cut away the tab, leaving a 1 inch flap.
Inside the tab trim away any excess of folding to stop bulking.




Then carefully stitch the tab down to the under collar (usually a felt fabric) making sure you do not come through to the front.

One final press of the whole collar FROM THE REVERSE SIDE - don’t go pressing the corduroy or you could ruin it - and you are all done!

Hopefully you have found this quite a simple change to make, but a very effective end result.

Compared to how it looked before, it makes all the difference to cheap coat for the budget cosplayer.

Just so you can see, here is before and after.

If you gave this a go I’d love to hear how you got on and see your end result.
Drop me an email to tennantcoat@me.com 
to share your experiences.