Saturday 10 September 2011

Greatcoat - and skip to the end

As you may have been reading, I’ve been having a bit of a roller-coaster couple of weeks since just after  Let’s Kill Hitler was shown.

Doing my best to keep my mind off things, I have immersed myself in finishing off my Greatcoat.

As I mentioned before, I haven’t documented its full creation, but here are a number of photos of it at various stages.

Stage 1 - Body panels
First I made the panels for the fronts and the back. The pocket were made and set, and the storm vents on the front and back were sewn in place.

As a quick check I pinned the shoulders together and put it on my mannequin (see left).

Stage 2 - Sleeves
Once the body of the coat was finished, and the lapels all pad-stitched, I then made the sleeves.

The cuffs have a tricky flared vent, but once I had the pattern worked out it was fairly easy for me to assemble.

Once the sleeves were on I took another view of the coat to check how things were looking (see left).
Be aware the lapels are with seam allowance and the  length has a 3-inch hem allowance, so things look a bit long and large at this stage.

Stage 3 - Lapel setting
Next I sorted the lapels and collar.

I had patterned them, but I always test them before cutting cloth, as they sometimes need adjustment.

I made them first in calico and trying them for size (see left, top). Once I am happy I can then make them for real and sew them in place (see left, bottom).

The collar doesn’t have anything underneath it at the moment, so its a bit shapeless, but I can see it is working - trust me!

Stage 4 - Collar setting
Now the lapels are all in place, I can create a pattern for the under-collar.
I want to make this as a reversible collar, ie one that can be flipped up at the back. I therefore need to give it some support, so the under-collar is cut in four panels, the three vertical seams of which give some boning to the collar.

At this point I also put the buttons on – and it really starts to look like it’s getting there (see left).
Stage 5 - Hand finishing
And finally, here is a picture of the coat very nearly done - I just have some little bits of hand-finishing to complete it.

I’ll take some proper pictures of it shortly, so check back soon.


  1. Amazing work steve

  2. That looks fantastic man, great job.

  3. That is so awesome! Well done!

  4. Looks fantastic! Do you expect you will be making some of these to commission?

  5. Truly amazing! If I had the skill to make this I would. I hope that you can make some for commission at some point. Keep up the amazing work!


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